The East Coast of Bali - where the mountains meet the sea
Calling all snorkellers, shipwreck explorers and sunrise seekers.
Bali’s arid East Coast is made up of a series of rustic seaside fishing villages. As the road winds from one black sandy beach to the next - this is the place to see the island’s most vivid marine life, find pristine beaches and undiscovered surf breaks. This is the Regency of Karangasem - where the mountains meet the sea.
You have your pick of accommodation from the spectacular Griya to rustic beachside bungalows, homestays, boutique clifftop villas and small wellness resorts like Good Karma and Life in Amed. And all without the maddening crowds from down South to ruin your view or your peace.
Home to some phenomenal dive spots like the USAT Liberty Shipwreck and with a green mountain backdrop (by mountain I mean the active volcano - Mt Agung who rises majestically into view). The 11km stretch of seaside fishing villages from Culik to Aas is known collectively as Amed and has a laid back, traditional vibe. With coral gardens, villages and shipwrecks to explore - it’s rustic, low key and superbly scenic.
Take your time and explore the region. Mt Agung is still active and keeps a watchful eye over the area. When the clouds clear and the volcano rises into view it really is a heart stopping moment. The 4km exclusion zone still applies so don’t try to climb it - you will be arrested. Pack a mask when you head to the area in the event of an eruption and keep up to date with the facts by following Mt Agung Daily Report on FB.
Hire a reliable scooter, wear a helmet and head to Jl Bunutan Bangle in Bunutan, for one of the most spectacular rides you will experience on the island. The road to Bangle winds its way up into the mountains with one hairpin bend after another - this jaunt is for experienced riders only. Those brave enough to get to the top will be treated to steep jaw dropping vistas along the way, rice fields, sheer cliffs and traditional villages where the kids still run out to greet you. Just like turning back time to a Bali we once knew - life here is simple, traditional and natural. Only tackle this ride in dry season as its prone to landslides and access is often cut off. It’s steep, it’s scary - it’s spectacular!
When it comes to eats - you can’t go past the fresh seafood that arrives straight off the boats every morning. Pepes Ikan and fresh fish caught off a traditional outrigger and grilled over coconut are a must. Amed has a range of dining from super chic places like Gusto Resto and Aquaterrace to classic Italian at Trattoria to casual barefoot on the sand warungs and reggae bars all along the beachfront. There are cute little cafes popping up and there is always a jaffle to be found nearby after a dive.
My pick was Green Coco Warung with it’s authentic local flavours and regional dishes from the area. If you are in a group you can pre-order the ‘big fish’ in advance and have it grilled. The Grill is also a standout for Aussie steaks cooked to order, fish of the day, a decent wine list and complimentary pick up drop off. Book a table in the candle lit garden for maximum romance.
Day trips and tours:
The East is a popular place to escape the hordes of the South so its easy to hang out for a few days and do nothing. Bias Tugel Beach, Virgin Beach or Blue Lagoon are tranquil, secluded places to laze a day away. Or sign up for a a dive safari or PADI course at Tulamben.
Or take a day trip to the beautiful village of Sidemen in the hills - stay a night or 5 and take the long way back as you meander down the mountains towards Candi Dasa ( views, view and more views). Spend a day at the culinary institution Bali Asli - with its drop dead gorgeous balcony views of Mt Agung and some of the finest dining served up in Bali.
The black sands of Kusamba Beach are known for traditional salt farms that are over a thousand years old. Run by the local fishing villages - get up early to watch the action.
The holiest of holy’s Pura Besakih is Bali’s ‘Mother Temple’, and is the most sacred site on the island. An intricate complex of temples and shrines built on 6 levels - perched 1,000 metres above sea level and built on the slopes of the mighty Mount Agung. Witnessing a ceremony here is a once in a lifetime experience.
Klungkung Palace and Kerta Gosa (Hall of Justice) in the centre of Klungkung is famous for its classical Balinese Ramayana paintings that adorn the walls and ceilings of this historic landmark. There are lotus ponds and halls to get lost in - a surprising little detour.
The delicately detailed Tirta Gangga is the former Royal Palace and is named after the Ganges the holiest of all Hindu rivers. A true water palace it has expansive gardens, ornate fountains and sculptures surrounded by stunning views of rice terraces.
Head to the Gates of Heaven at the Pura Lempuyang temple, to see this unique "split gate" style of Hindu / Balinese architecture. Representing the inner and outer realms and the boundary between the terrestrial world and the sacred space of the temple - Mt Agung is framed perfectly within its gateway.
Nearby Tihingan Village in Klungkung is renowned for producing Bali’s unique gamelan instruments. From traditional gongs, drums and all the ritual objects any high priest needs Tihingan is like stepping back in time. Go for a wander and discover local workshops and galleries. Look for each family’s individual heritage mark on every instrument.
The East is also home to some of the island’s oldest villages. The Aga people of Tenganan Pegringsingan produce one of the rarest textiles in the world. And are also famous for their intricate basketry and weaving.
Then head to Watu Klotok Temple a 10th century beachfront Hindu temple. The site its built in is old - megalithic times old. It looks over Watu Klotok Beach which is framed by farming villages, ricefields and black sand.
